Tag Archives: Italy

I know, I’m behind!

I know that I’m behind, but we’ve been moving around a lot! I’ll start from where I left off, in Vis, Croatia.  We left Vis and made our way to Trogir.  Trogir is, also, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  I’ll look up what that actually means eventually.  Trogir was a super tiny island with an old town built upon it.  We stayed on the other side of the bridge from Trogir which cut down a bit on the noise factor, and probably the price, although the little apartment we stayed in was more than we’d wanted to spend. Trogir was cute, but too touristy.  We stayed there because it was a short ride from the airport, so it suited our needs.  

The next morning the person who was renting out the apartment drove us to the airport (for a bit of a fee).  Split airport was quite deceiving.  After getting through security (where both Seth and I had to take off our shoes because we buzzed.  Weird, because there is absolutely no metal in our shoes) we parouzed the duty free shop and found a snack at the snack bar.  We were disappointed with our selection, and then were kicking ourselves when we went up a level to where our gate was.  On that level there were shops and restaurants with good looking food.  Bummer.

We were off for another adventure.  Athens was going to be our first CouchSurfing experience.  Sloane set it up for us.  A native Athenian, was going to host us near the center of the city (I didn’t ask for permission to use his name on the blog, so I’ll respect his privacy).  Seth and I were nervous of what to expect.  We made our way through the metro to get to a stop near his apartment and found him at the opening to the street.  He immediately whisked us away in his fancy Alpha Romeo with red leather interior.  It was nice to be in a nice car.  He was charming and informative.  After settling in and offering us drinks, he offered to take us to a place for lunch.  He drove us around in search of a place to eat.  Since it was Sunday, and at a weird in-between hour, it was a bit difficult.  We tried three places before we found one that was open.  It was really good! We had a Greek feast!  There was greek salad, fried cheese, a whole fish, some prawns, some kind of sautéed greens, but my favorite was this creamy, white paste that was made from caviar.  It was amazing.  I could eat it with a spoon for hours, or dunk bread in it, or tomatoes…

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Apparently, it is Greek tradition that the youngest has to eat the most.  So, since there was one filet of the fish left, Sloane had to finish it, even though she was full.  But, she was promised to get ice cream if she did.  So, afterwards we headed to a wonderful little sweet shop with artisan ice cream.  We got what he told us were traditionally Greek flavors like, pistachio, rose water, and this one flavor called Mastic that I had to look up to see what it was.  It is the resin from a tree with hints of pine or cedar.  It’s really good, and we’ve tried ice cream elsewhere where they added honey to it.  It is really good.  (here’s a link to the wikipedia page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mastic_(plant_resin) )

That night we went out to an area called Gazi where all these posh bars are.  It was really neat.  There were lots of people out even though it was Sunday.  We sat on a rooftop bar and drank fancy mixed drinks like pomegranate and honey martinis and smashed basil and mint coolers under a little olive tree.

The next day, our amazing host drove us to the Acropolis before he went to work.  We meandered about the ancient Greek ruin with wide eyes (and a lot of Spanish tourists).  The Acropolis was an amazing site with so much history, and spectacular views of the city.

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After the Acropolis we strolled around the streets at the base of the mountain.  There were tons of shops and things to look at.  It happened to be extremely hot, so we ended up doing a bit of drinking to cool ourselves down.  But that allowed us to use the free wifi and have a bit of Skype conversations.  We, also, bought Sloane some traditional Greek Sandals for her birthday.  She REALLY needed new sandals, and they were pretty cool.  We, also, found our ferry tickets to Milos and a place to stay.  Both were a little more than we wanted to spend, but it was our only option.

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After tons of walking around Athens city center, we metro-ed our way back to our couch surfing residence, and were picked up.  That night we cooked dinner at his home.  It was really nice.  There’s something about cooking and sharing a meal together that brings people together.  We were taught how to cook braised baby goat, a proper Greek salad (with a cool tomato technique), and goat chops and kebab on the grill.  It was all so good! And, I always like trying new things.  Goat was a first for me.  We finished off our meal with fresh fruit (Greek fruit), and some candied grapes in its own syrup that his mother made.  Everything was cooked with Greek ingredients and that made it all the better.  Our couch surfing host was patient, giving, well informed on everything Greek, and a good conversationalist.  It was a really good experience, and I hope all of our couch surfing experiences can be that good!

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The next morning we caught a cab at 6am to get to the port.  Milos, here we come!  Well, we’re here.  We found our sleepy little fishing village and our one bedroom apartment with ease and settled in by slapping on some suits and hopping in the water. It is so clear!  A little colder than expected, but refreshing.  There were tons of cool critters on the sea floor to follow in our masks.

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We swam a lot yesterday and hung around.  It was nice to read a book with our amazing view.

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At night we made our own greek salad with bread, all from the local market.  Then, we headed into ‘town’ to grab a drink and to play Farkle.  Seth won the first game, and since I lost I had to run screaming from the table and go back to our apartment to collect more money.  Luckily, I won the second game.  But, sadly, there was no wager.  Boo!

Today, after a delicious breakfast of eggs, tomatoes, and feta, we hopped on a bus to get to the port town of Adamas.  We poked around in the shops and grabbed snacks.  We then found our way to another little village to see the only Christian Catacombs in Greece.  We walked up a bit of a hill, then made our way down a switchback road to the catacombs.  Luckily, they were closed! So, we didn’t get to go in.  If there were things to see or do in the surrounding village we might have walked around a bit, but as it turns out there wasn’t, and the bus back to where we wanted to go left in 10 minutes time.  We decided to make a run for it.  We had 10 minutes to run uphill in 90 degree heat.  Man, oh man, were we sweating when we finally reached the bus stop.  But, we made it there with about 3 minutes before the bus arrived.  Fortunately, the buses here are well air conditioned.

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We grabbed a lunch of gyro and souvlaki at a restaurant in town.  Seth got his ‘covered’ which was a big mistake.  It was doused with cheese and bacon and french fries and mayonnaise. It was a mistake.  That was definitely a touristy option, but we didn’t know.  Sloane and I got ours in a more traditional fashion and it was pretty good, although lacking the proper amount of tzaziki.

We decided to do a bit of grocery shopping, due to the scarcity of goods in our sleepy little village.  So, so we gathered the usual suspects, of feta, tomatoes, eggs, etc. and made our way back to Pollonia.  

Tonight, I have a feeling our sleepy little village won’t be so sleepy.  Tonight is a Panagiri! So exciting.  Panagiri is the Greek word for party.  So we are going to a party run by the village where there will be food and dancing and probably some drinking.  Traditional music will be played, and I hope it’s a blast.  So, we’ve put on our fanciest outfits and we’ll head out soon!

Milan Italy Meatballs

I haven’t been posting much lately because the food in Croatia was uninspired, for the past week and  half we have had the exact same menu to order from.

3 soups, beef, tomato and mushroom.

4 salads, cabbage, tomato, seasonal (lettuce) or mixed, and mixed is literally cabbage, lettuce and tomato.

a few spaghetti options that would probably include tomato sauce and carbonara.

1 or 2 Risotto’s

Some exceptionally expensive fish and meat options.

And Bread (which all restaurants charge for even if you don’t ask for it).

 

We have left Croatia on our 3 day trek to get to Milos, a small greek island and I’ve become inspired to write about the food we have been eating again. This meal was found near the Duomo in Milan, we were wandering around the small streets surrounding this church and happened in a restaurant named Cimmino Fresco. Where I ate one of the best meatballs of my life. Sloane and I both ordered the meatballs and Berkley ordered veal milanese. The rest of the meal was nothing exceptional but these meatballs were fluffy, had a nice crispy parts on the outside, and had whole roasted pine nuts sprinkled throughout. It’s good to be out of Croatia and have a lot more variety on the menu.

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Hostel Swap

Hostel Swap. It’s kinda like Wife swap, but less entertaining.  We packed up all of our things and headed toward the islands of Venice.  We were off to find a lady with sardines.  What I mean by that, is we had to make it to a meeting point by 10am to find Mrs. Di Cicco, our cooking class instructor.  This sounds simple, right? You plan enough time to get from point A (our hostel on the mainland) to point B (an obscure vaporetto stop).  And, it would be simple if we had a map that included all of Venice’s windy streets, or if all of the windy streets were labeled with names.  Honestly, I don’t think all of the ‘streets’ have names.  So, what you do is you look at the map, walk in the general direction you think you are supposed to go, then ask someone who looks like a local where this point B is, then turn around because you’ve been going the wrong way.  Eventually we seem to get to all the places we need.  If it weren’t so darn hot, or if we weren’t carrying all of our possessions, it wouldn’t be that big of a deal.  My strategy with directions, so far, is to take off my sunglasses, place a semi-vapid look upon my face, and walk up to an Italian man while butchering their romantic language, pointing to a dot on a map.  Then I smile real big, with a bit of confusion in my eyebrows.  This seems to be working relatively well, met with smiles, laughs and very helpful directions.  

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We made it to our destination with 5 minutes to spare, and met Mrs. Di Cicco.  She led us through the labyrinth to her apartment on the top floor of a building.  It was a beautiful space with air conditioning and a serene balcony view.  Sadly the weather didn’t permit lunch on the terrace.  With the guidance of Mrs. Di Cicco, and Seth’s expertise, we created a delectable meal of Sarde di Saor (marinated sardines in an onion, pine nut, and raisin mix), zucchini and prawn  risotto, baked sea bass in tomatoes, olives, and capers, and Zabaglione (a marsala wine custard).  It was all so delicious.  I really, really liked the sardines.  I was impressed that Sloane liked them too.  She even had seconds! The risotto was cooked in an amazing broth that we made with the prawn heads and a variation of a mir poux.  I could have sipped that from a cup, it was so good.  The dessert was surprisingly good.  I don’t normally like custards, or custard-like consistencies (aka Jell-O [which is the devil so don’t even go there]), but this was so good.  She said it could be served warm, but due to the heat we popped them into the fridge, so they were cold when we ate them.  We dunked thin, little Venetian cookies into the cream and it was oh so good.

After lunch we promptly hauled our junk over towards the hostel.  It wasn’t far at all, and if my memory serves me correctly, we didn’t ask for directions.  Well, maybe we did.  There definitely wasn’t a street name.  We had to go to the ‘alley’ behind the street name.  We had a bit of trouble with the guy who checked us in because he didn’t want to allow us to only stay one night.  And the rules surrounding this situation were quite ridiculous, but we decided to wait until the morning when we could speak with the manager.

After doing some planning and relaxing in the AC, we made our way to Vaporetto 1.  Ok, a little info about Venice for those of you who don’t know.  Before I came to Venice the first time, I was unaware that it was a series of islands.  In the city center there are no cars.  It’s a walking city.  I don’t even think I saw bikes.  This is because to get to places you want to go you usually have to cross several bridges, and many of the streets are barely wide enough for two people to walk side by side.  But, there is a lot of water.  The canals are the lifeblood of Venice.  So, any and all transportation happens upon them.  Mail, police, deliveries, you name it, it happens on the water.  A vaporetto is public transportation, or Venice’s version of a bus or subway.  Something to know about the vaporettos, and public transportation in general in Venice (and perhaps Italy), is that they hardly check for tickets.  At our bus stop on the mainland there wasn’t a place to buy a ticket, and when we asked the driver he waved us along.  Silly us, we got on Vaporetto 1 and asked the boat guy where we could buy a ticket.  So we paid 7 euro each.  As we were on the little boat we watched the hoards of people waltz onto the boat without mention of tickets or the like.  Gah!  Oh well.  Anyhow, Vaporetto 1 makes its way down the Grand Canal and you get to see Venice how it’s meant to be seen.  I finally was able to see some of the magic of Venice.  Getting lost in the stale, humid heat while trekking through the maze of streets is not a pleasurable experience, while losing yourself with the wind blowing through your hair making your way down the Grand Canal with the magnificent architecture of the old masters passing by can leave a lasting impression.

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Finding our way back to our stop at the Rialto Fish Market, we set off in search of dinner.  We found a spot that looked decent and didn’t try to steal too much of our money.  We then traipsed back to our hostel, only a few turns away, and settled in for the evening.

This morning we abandoned our hostel on time, as the manager begrudgingly agreed to not charge us for an extra night.  It was still cool when we left the hostel.  Wait, wait.  Cool is the wrong word.  Maybe I should say that it was cooler than painfully hot.  So, maybe we didn’t start sweating until we walked a few yards.  That’s a more accurate description of the weather.  Anyhow, we left in search for the docks to buy tickets to Croatia.  We found the docks, left our big bags at the station, and caught a Vaporetto to the island of Murano.  Murano is known for it’s blown glass.  I was hoping to find a hands on class to take while in Venice, but that was not in our cards for the day.  We had about three hours until we had to get back to the station.  

Remember my schtick about public transportation and not really having to pay the fare?  Well, I’m going to have to say that that rule does not apply when taking a vaporetto to a super touristy island.  We took a few vaporettos without purchasing tickets, but on this boat they checked.  There went another 7 euros each!  I bet they never actually fine you for not paying for a ticket (it’s 57 euros if they do), that they just make you buy a ticket. 

As we exited the boat someone was kindly there to tell us that there was a glass blowing demonstration, free of charge, all the way down the path to the left.  We watched the demonstration, which was just a lure to get us to shop, then we shopped.  LOL  But I think glass blowing is really cool, so I thought the demonstration, no matter how mundane they made it, was interesting to me.  One day I will take a course.  Anyhow, it was neat to walk through the shops and see all the glass.  We wanted to buy a really interesting Christmas ornament, but didn’t want to babysit a glass orb through Africa. 

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After finding a cheap lunch (which included the best pizza we had in Venice) we returned to the docks, bought our ferry tickets to Rovinj and we are on our way.  We don’t have a place to stay for the night, but Sloane has a friend in Rovinj who is, supposedly, finding us a place to stay.  I hope this works.  Either way, we are pretty excited for Croatia.  We’re hoping it includes relaxation, beaches, outdoor activities, good food, and a stronger dollar

Food – Beer and Pizza, Venice

Breakfast this morning consisted of half a pack of cookies and 2 cups of coffee, needless to say after a 2 hour plane ride, followed by one hour finding our hostel, then forty five minuets commute into Venice, followed by a half hour search for a place to eat we were very parched, very hot, and very hungry. We wandered into what seemed like the only place that was open and ordered 3 beers. Berkley was pretty silly after her first sip. After we had almost finished our entire beers out pizza came, it was tasty but I had high hopes for italian pizza. I don’t have photos of them but we did end up having better pizza in Venice.

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