Instant Karma’s Gonna Get You

I may (or may not) get flak for this post, but I’m not interested in opposing views on this one.  I know I mentioned it in an earlier post, but I can not stand for the animal cruelty I’m seeing here in India involving dogs.  I sat through a tour today and I listened to a man give me a long speech about how to be hindu is to be caring to all creatures.  Bullshit.  I’ve watched children run up and hit sleeping dogs, then run after them with the stick, grown men throw rocks at their ‘sacred’ cows, and today I saw a man swerve intentionally to run over a puppy, as the girl on the back of the bike laughed.  Fuck that, I don’t have to accept that.  And I don’t buy into this happy ‘hindus respecting life’ crap, when this is what I see.  I understand that this is not everyone, I have seen one man call over a dog and pet him, and I noticed that our driver stays away from dogs, but I’ve seen way more incidents of abuse that I’m sickened by. And the condition of the stray dogs in India is appalling. Just because a dog is a stray doesn’t mean it has to be skin and bones starving.  For example, Greece or Turkey.  In Greece the people take it upon themselves to take care of stray animals, and in Turkey there are rescues where the dogs are tagged and cared for.

 So, I don’t know if it’s possible, but for all you people who are thinking about adopting a dog from outside the country, see if you can find one from India, because they are the lowest on the totem pole here.  Even though these abusers are not good hindus, I hope their karma gets them in the end.

India Dog

Off to Rajasthan

We booked a tour with Shanti Travels.  I’m not sure how much of a tour it will actually be.  It seems like we’re booking a driver and hotels.  But, here we go.

So, our drive from Delhi to our first stop, Mandawa was supposed to take between five to six hours.  Due to an insane amount of traffic due to incessant swerving and large puddles in the road, a portion that usually takes about 2 hours ended up being a good full 5 hours.  So, it ended up taking us twelve hours to reach our destination.  So, we spent our first day of our tour in the car.  And we thought we would be seeing countryside once we left Delhi.  We were wrong.  We didn’t reach anything country until the last 45 minutes.  There are an impressive amount of people in India.

Out Of Delhi Traffic

crazy roads

Mandawa was a small town.  It is known for it’s Havelis.  A haveli is basically a mansion built for the maharajas and wealthy people about 200-250 years ago.  They are decorated with intricate paintings, designs, and carvings.  They are quite crumbly and unkept, but you could imagine they were quite magical in their time.

We were staying at a haveli.  It was an interesting chambered room.  We had a sleeping room which fit the bed (I use the word bed lightly), a sitting room, a terrace, and a bathroom.  Definitely charming, but definitely not to our level of cleanliness or comfort.  The ‘bed’ was a wicker frame with a super thin mattress.  It was a painful night of ‘sleep’.

Mandawa Haveli

We left the next morning for Bikaner.  On the way we stopped at a really magnificent and well restored haveli (restored by the french artist who now owns it). It was really beautiful.

Bikaner Haveli

We then made our way to a temple of Seth’s choosing.  I was quite surprised to hear Seth’s request to visit this temple, because it is a temple that is dedicated to its holy rats.  So, Seth, the man who loathes rodents, requested to enter a place where you have to take off your shoes to walk around a temple infested with rats. Curious.  The smell was abhorrent.  I think Dr. Rock (our travel doctor) would be horrified and was waving her finger back and forth tutting inside my head.  I definitely didn’t touch anything.  But, yes, there were rats everywhere.  They had buckets of food for the rats placed everywhere, and even pans of milk for them to enjoy.  Some of them must have indulged too much, because there were many dead rats decaying as well.  It’s interesting that even an animal who carries deadly diseases can be considered holy, while the dogs are blatantly abused.

rat milk

rat hotel

Which brings me to something I realize I haven’t mentioned. We’ve all heard the stereotype that there are cows on the streets in India.  Well, it’s not a stereotype.  They are everywhere, and they rule.  If there’s a cow in the street the cars will stop or go around it. They will walk into homes, food stalls, etc. And the cows are not your garden variety dairy type cow you find all over the US.  These are what we call Brahma Bulls.  Probably because the Brahamans worship them?  Though they are a bit prettier, they are no more intelligent.

Cow Road

There are, also, a surprising amount of camels.  I didn’t expect to see camels in India, but they’re everywhere.  They are used like donkeys, but for heavier loads, I guess.  So there are cows, camels, donkeys, and then there are the street dogs.  I feel so bad for these dogs.  Many of them run on three legs, because one of them is too hurt to run on. Our first night we were walking and one of the street dogs  decided to follow us.  We weren’t doing anything special other than not being mean to it.  It wandered around a parked car near a security guard and apparently the guy kicked the dog hard because he ran away limping and squealing/crying.  It hurt my heart.  The books, and many people, will tell you that you have to be accepting of other cultures and that it’s just different, but there are some things I refuse to accept.  Cruelty of canines is one of them.

We arrived in Bikaner and visited the Junagarh Fort.  It was pretty, but stark.  It was really big, though.  Most of the fort was stripped of it’s contents, leaving most to the imagination.  Once again, it must have been magical in its time.

Bikaner Fort

For dinner we found a place in our Lonely Planet guidebook, named Gallops.  Their logo was horses running through a horseshoe, and they served really cold beer.  Perfect.  Dinner was very good.  We started off with paneer pakora, which is basically spiced battered and fried cheese.  We dipped them in ketchup and a chili sauce.  That was quite good.  For dinner we ordered paneer butter masala, which is similar to tikka masala in the US, but with spicier black roasted chills. We, also, ordered shubnam curry which had mushrooms, fresh green peas and a cream gravy.  To round it out an order of plain naan was our choice.  It was a very good meal.

Gallop Dinner

Back on American Soil

Sorry to tell you guys this after the fact, but we made an unexpected trip back to the US.  We strolled along American soil where most everybody spoke english and things were clean and well kept.

Um, well, here’s the thing, at our food tour we were part of a group where four out of the seven of us worked for the US Embassy.  We became friendly with a couple, and they invited us to see the Embassy.  The US embassy in Delhi takes up 3 large blocks.  It’s quite impressive.  There are offices, living quarters, a ‘country club’, an acclaimed international school, and so much more.  It was a really neat experience.  Neither Seth nor I had ever been to a US embassy, so it was a first!  It was, also, really interesting to get the perspective of living in India with a family and hearing about little things that you wouldn’t think of otherwise.  Of course, the school and her kids were really intriguing to me. Hearing about their experience was important for me.

You’ll notice that there are no photos of the embassy.  That’s because you can’t take photos of an embassy, duh.

Because they are just lovely people, they invited us to have dinner with them at their home, which happened to be right around the corner from the place we were staying.  It was a bit of a shock to catch a glimpse into their fridge and their kitchen, because it was packed with products that I haven’t seen since early June.  Working at the embassy they have access to American goods.  We had a delicious meal of a cobb salad (planned?) and baked potatoes, with rice crispy treats for dessert.  Yum! It was so welcome.  It was really nice to swap travel stories and hear about their experiences.

monk Rum

New Delhi, Hold the Belly

We needed to do a lot of planning.  We still had no plans, at all, for our time in India.  We were starting to see that a good area to visit would be Rajistan, so we began inquiring into a few tour agencies.  Then we hired a car to take us around for the day to see some Delhi sights before our evening activities.

Hiring a car is the best way to see India, so I’m told, and so far I believe it.  If only for the mere fact that they drive on the other side of the road.  But, along with that, it’s like a MarioKart race of sorts, bobbing and weaving through traffic to get to the red light first.  But, that’s another thing.  There were places where all the cars would stop, but I didn’t see any stop lights, or stop signs.  So, it seems as if there are secret rules. Did we mention we saw Batman driving around Delhi?

delhiTraffic

Anyhow, we hired a car.  His English was quite minimal, so asking cultural questions and, really, any questions at all were not worth the time.  At one point during the day we were trying to explain to him that we wanted to buy some water and snacks at a store.  We used as many descriptive words as possible, “a place where they sell food/ things to eat/ water/etc and other variations of the phrase, and we ended up at a place where they sold textiles and handicrafts. Nope.

But, we did have a list of places where we we wanted to go that were well known, large monuments, and he was able to get us to those.  We saw the Gate of India (basically Delhi’s arc du triompf), the president’s house and all the government buildings, we went to the Lodi Gardens, drove past the ultra modern Lotus Temple, and walked around Houmayoun’s tomb.  It was all pretty neat.  It was nice to walk around the tomb and the gardens, but it was super hot and humid.

berkley Temple

We made our way back to the hotel to shower up before our evening adventures.  Seth found a street food tour online called Delhi Food Tours that seemed quite trustworthy.  What sold us was that the wife, Aisha, was the tester.  Aisha apparently has a very sensitive stomach, ever since she attended an American boarding school for high school.  So, if she gets sick within 2 days after going to a restaurant, they take it off their list.

The first stop on the list was to a tea shop where we were invited to try a variety of teas from India.  This is something Seth and I really enjoy and visiting the tea shop was an unexpected treat.  There were light white teas all the way to rich, full bodied black teas. A nice start to the evening.

Delhi Tea

Our second stop was a restaurant that is spposed to have food from the area of Goa.  That’s a beach area in the south of India.  I really liked the food there.  They had a fried fish with chili powder and lime and it was so, so good.  I also really liked their chutney.

first stop curry

The next place we went to was fabulous.  There we tried something called a dosa.  A dosa is kind of like when you take cheese and slap it on a fry top until it turns into a chip.  But, it doesn’t taste like cheese, it tastes like a cracker.  And really good.  And you use it like a nacho, dipping it into sauces.  I really liked the sauce that was like a tomato lentil soup.  So good!  But, what I, also, really enjoyed here was the coffee.  I don’t normally drink coffee after about noon or so, but I was assured that this coffee would be different from any coffee I’d ever had.  And it was.  It was rich and caramelly and oh so good! And they do this thing to mix in the sugar where you pour it from glasss to cup, back and forth to mix in the sugar and make the coffee a bit frothy.  I really hope to find that again.

pour coffee

Delhi Dosa

We, then, went to a place that specializes in BBQ.  I truly loved this place.  We had BBQ chicken that was spectacular.  It was perfectly cooked, not dry, but nice and juicy and jam packed with flavor.  Seth’s favorite was the spicy lamb kabob.  I liked it too, but I was busy with the chicken.

Delhi BBQ

Then there was the dessert place.  But, before dessert we had to try some of their main courses as well!  Seth and I each got lassi, one sweet, one salty.  The sweet one was just like in the states, but the salty one was not just plain yogurt.  It had spices in it like cardamom, black pepper, and salt. Both really interesting, but I liked the sweet one best.  We then tried the ‘grenades’.  Seth tried one first, then waited for my reaction.  It was like a little puff that you crack open at the top, so that you can fill it wit a potato mixture and a green juice.  It explodes in your mouth and was quite reminiscent of eggs.  Since, I’ve heard it described as having a septic like taste.  Great.  Then came what has been lovingly named ‘the compost pile’.  I truly liked that one.  It was little flat dumpling type things covered in a yogurt and pomegranate, ginger, and some other stuff.  Not sure.  I really liked it. A delicious dish came out next with spiced chick peas.  Oh so good! Finally it was time for dessert.  The sweets were so decadent.  My favorite was gulab jamun. Almost like a doughnut soaked in syrup.

We were beyond full after all that.  It was a delicious evening and it was nice to meet some Delhi natives and some people from back home.

Kwa Heri Africa, Namaste India

Good bye Africa, hello India! 

It took us 24 hours of travel to get here, but we’re in New Delhi, India.  We left our beach bungalow at 10am to get to the Zanzibar airport.  We took a short flight, about a half hour or less, to Dar es Salaam, then we had to wait for our next flight, which was 5 hours away.  This might be ok if we were in an airport like DIA (Denver Airport) where we could wander through the stores aimlessly, have a decent bite to eat, or even post up at the New Belgium Brewery in the airport.  But, Dar es Salaam is a tiny airport. There’s 3 to 4 tiny shops that have the exact same items, and a restaurant that looked questionable and was severely overpriced, like the stores.  It was actually kinda funny.  We found little Kirkland packets of nuts for sale, but they were like $5, and not worth it.  A small pack of gum was $3.  So we sat and listened to our audio book.

Finally we took the 3 hour flight to Ethiopia.  We had another 5 hours to kill in that airport.  We had originally thought we were going to be there during the day, and that we would check in, leave our bags, and venture out into Ethiopia for lunch or dinner.  But, it was from 7pm to midnight, so we skipped that idea.  This airport was weird.  The shops were filled with random designer labels, but it all seemed fishy, like they were counterfeit, or they had “fallen off a truck”.  Also, the shelves were fairly empty, there’d be a huge shelf with two or three items on it.  And there were TONS of cigarettes.  Apparently cigarettes from China are a hot commodity, because they were expensive, $50 a carton, while Marlboro were $16.

It was finally time to head to our gate.  When the man called for passengers with children, needing special assistance, and business class members, the entire group of people in the waiting area bum rushed the entrance.  And they began to enter without being let in.  Eventually we made our way up, but the people were so pushy and then so close behind us that I kind of wish we had waited for everyone else to board first.  But we needed to assure that we had overhead luggage space. They would push up against you, and when you turned your head they would apologize, but do it again and again.  Just before the plane there was a guy trying to check everyone’s ticket, and we watched him turn away a passenger and realize that he might have been letting people on the plane who shouldn’t have been let on.  Hmm.  I’m pretty sure there were some stow aways on that flight.

The flight was about 6 hours, after the delay, but it was not a bad flight.  We dosed ourselves with our respective knock out drugs and were able to sleep a bit.  Aside from the fact that I was awoken by people walking by and bumping into me with elbows and carts, we were awoken in the middle of the night for a meal.  I think we were in a daze because we sleepily ate a meal at about 2:30 in the morning.  Totally unnecessary, but we were zoned out.  Seth barely remembered anything the next day.

The plane landed and the airport in India was much more vigilant about the passengers on the plane.  They cattle blocked the exit and checked everyone’s ticket stub, and if they couldn’t find it, they had to wait.  I thought that was awesome.

We were picked up by someone from our hotel and we made our way into Delhi.  We landed on a Sunday morning, so traffic wasn’t like it normally is.  We’ve heard a lot about Delhi traffic.  And, maybe it’s because we just spent a few weeks in Africa, but so far New Delhi is not like we expected.  It is much ‘nicer’ than we expected.  But, I’m also going to assume that we are in the nicer part of the city.  When I looked up our area it seems to be the Silverlake of New Delhi.  But, when I say this, don’t picture a street lined with pretty store fronts and welcoming restaurants.  I said it is the Silverlake of New Delhi.  We’ve already encountered areas that require ten gallon lungs to hold your breath.

Our hotel, aside from our romantic anniversary night, is the nicest hotel we’ve been in.  Amarya Haveli is a cute boutique B&B where we were offered their delicious homemade iced tea upon arrival.  Our room is the Jaipur room, so it is themed pink, with a pink temple painted on the wall.  And the bathroom is glorious.  Aside from the fact that you have to keep your mouth glued shut in the shower (we’re in India) it is amazing, with water pressure and extremely hot water.  And we had the best night sleep, probably since we moved out of our apartment in May.  AC, hot water, clean, and a comfy bed.  Awesome.

Amarya Haveli

We ventured out for a walk to a park nearby.  We ended up finding Deer Park, where they actually have deer in an enclosure.  There was a lady there who was feeding them yellow rice and naan.  I have a feeling that she wasn’t supposed to be doing that.

deerRice

Eventually we made our way to a recommended restaurant called Park Baluchi (which I bet means deer park), where we would have our first Indian meal.  We ordered two beers, two vegetarian dishes, and two types of bread. The beer was Kingfisher and the waiter presented them to each of us like one would a bottle of wine.  It was interesting.  Then there was a well packed ball of ricotta like cheese in something similar to a vodka sauce (i.e. tomato and cream).  That was really good.  It had lots of spices and a bit of a kick. Yum! Then there was a spinach based dish with string beans, corn and potatoes.  That was, also, very good.  We accompanied those with regular naan and kolcha, which is what I believe to be India’s version of pizza.  It was a flat bread with some chopped tomatoes, spices and cheese.  All very good.

firstDinner

We made our way back to our hotel and ordered some masala chai tea to keep ourselves awake so that we wouldn’t fall asleep too early.  The tea was delicious. And so was our night’s sleep. Aahhh…

Food – Pizza Island style

On our first night in Stone Town, asking locals where we should eat is fruitless. You would be met with a blank stare or an undecipherable jumble of swahili and english. The divide between a restaurant that a local would go to and a restaurant that a tourist would go to is massive. And if you don’t know already, I’m willing to try all sorts of street meat, but the local restaurants are a non starter. Also, many of the restaurants on the beach serve alcohol and that’s reason enough for these muslim men to refrain from going.

After wandering around a good deal we had just given up all hope of finding palace to eat that both looked good and fit our budget. Then we saw smoke rising in the distance and a crown starting to gather. As we approached we saw tourist and locals alike ordering meat, fish, crab, vegetables, octopus, squid, you name it it was skewered and placed on white hot coals. They piled it all on a paper plate topped it with some still sizzling french fries and covered it with piripiri sauce or if you were adventurous pirpirihoho, swahili for very hot chili. (piripiri a native african chili, fiery hot, but immensely complex and flavorful)

seafood bar

Only being free of my stomach woes from istanbul for a week or so I wanted to play it safe, so we decided to steer clear of the pre cooked dodgy looking meats and go with what the vendors were calling pizza.

 

pizza cook

As you can see, this is clearly not pizza, but it was delicious. It came closer to a pan fried chinese dumpling. They start off with a thin layer of dough, pile on finely diced onion, carrot, peppers and tomato. Then they mix in a piece of laughing cow style cheese, a small scoop of mayonnaise, piripiri, and then crack a raw egg and scramble it all together in the dough. Our cook Mohammed slaps the whole thing dough side down on a buttered fry top and cooks for about 10 minuets.

not pizza

During our wait we noticed a large wheeled contraption next to Mohammad’s kiosk. And saw five foot tall stalks of sugar cane along with fresh cut limes and big bulbs of ginger being fed through the device, the juice was trickling down into a tub with large blocks of ice. We couldn’t resist, we bought one, then another, then another. They were 1000 TZS each, that’s about 75 cents. Ice cold, tart lime, sweet cane juice, spicy ginger. The only way they could have been better, and they were already superb was with a splash of white rum.

cane Juicer

If some entrepreneurial person is reading this, find a way to get one of these machines to venice beach, south beach, pretty much any beach in america and you will have a line of people down the block.

I have the best husband in the world, hands down.

Although this may seem quite obvious I’d love to share a story of one of the many reasons I know this is true.

Though our accommodation in Zanzibar is quite acceptable, it was not as nice or as luxurious as the internet had made it seem.  Go figure.  But, there are very nice hotels along the beach, we just weren’t really staying at one of them.  But, Seth and I happily ate our breakfast of fruit and instant coffee, glad to be out of Stone Town, and happy to be spending our second anniversary as a married couple in such an exotic place.

ZanzibarSunset

After breakfast, we went for a leisurely stroll down the beach.  We checked out the little pools of water to see if anything was alive in them.  Tons of sea stars and quite a few crustaceans.  We eventually made it to the super nice hotel at the top of the island and Seth decided to use the restroom there.  We wandered from the beach in through the hotel to reception to find the bathroom.  I stayed back as Seth went around the corner.  When he came back a moment later, he was accompanied by a staff member and said, “Surprise! We’re staying here for the night!”  I was utterly confused.  I didn’t know what was happening.  But it turned out that the evening before when Seth “went to get pictures of the sunset while the light was still good” he was really booking it down the beach to make a reservation at the nice hotel for our anniversary night.  Amazing.  I have the best husband ever, hands down.

hotel essque

hot essque hut

So, we spent the day and evening lounging around the super fancy resort.  Having drinks at the pool, lunch on the jetty out in the water, and a four course dinner, which had an added bonus of a rowdy kiswahili song and cake which, I think was their version of ‘happy anniversary’ or something like that.

hotel sunset

This morning we had a beautiful breakfast with delicious coffee, charcuterie, fruit, and steak and eggs.  And it was an amazing surprise of an anniversary that I will definitely remember.

Stone Town, Zanzibar

zanzibar Sunset

We made it to Stone Town in Zanzibar and to our hotel.  Though it is an island, Stone Town has the least island vibe Seth or I have ever been to.  It feels like a busy, dirty city.  Though our hotel was pretty, they caused us more problems than it was worth.  When we did our laundry they burnt a hole in my shirt, they charged us more for our second night without notifying us, and they didn’t follow through with helping us out with a transfer to the north of the island.  Zenji Hotel in Stone Town sucks.  Don’t give them your money.

The spice tour was nice.  We roamed through a plantation and were able to smell and taste a variety of local spices such as lemon grass and cinnamon, but the spice Zanzibar is known for is clove.  The clove flower had a very sweet, spicy smell.  

Zanzibar Tumeric

Zanzibar Lipstick Plant

We then made our way to the north of the island.  As I mentioned before, the hotel guy did not follow through with getting us a good price on a ride to compensate for the damaged shirt.  40 dollars is way too much for the ride.  After being swindled a few times trying to find a ride, we finally managed to get a ride to the north for a reasonable price.

But, apparently there are two hotels with very similar names.  We were taken to the Baraka Beach Bungalows while we needed to go to the Baraka Aquarium Bungalows.  Hmm… So we had a delicious lunch of lobster coconut curry before heading to our actual hotel.  The place is fine, but it wasn’t quite as nice as the hotel we were initially dropped off at.  But the Aquarium Bungalows will do.  And it was clean and did have hot water, so… How can I complain.  Once we made our way down the beach I felt better.  This is my first white sand beach.  It’s quite beautiful.  The fine white sand  makes the water glow a bright turquoise.  It’s really quite lovely.

Zanzibar Flats

This Is Africa

We found a few days prior to leaving Istanbul that Americans need a visa to enter India, even for connecting flights.  We tried the embassy in Istanbul, but we couldn’t wait the required four days for the visa.  So the plan was to apply for the visa in Dar es Salaam Tanzania and they would mail it to Zanzibar, where we’d pick it up after our safari. We landed in Dar es Salaam at 2 am and then “slept” until 8am where we hired a car to take us into the city to the Indian consulate. We dropped off our passports in the hopes that they would approve the visas and then send our passports to Stone Town in Zanzibar after our safari. We were more then a little concerned that we had just given away our only  way of leaving the country. Our trip hung in the balance and rested on the Indian embassy’s ability to quirky approve a visa and return our passports.

Well, we made it back to the airport at about 11am and we were able to hop on an earlier flight to Kilimanjaro Airport.  We were picked up by our driver and made it to Moshi.  We were pretty exhausted, since we’d been traveling for a full 24 hours, I timed it.  

We met our guide, driver and buddy for the next week, Elvis.  And we, finally, got to meet Ria.  Ria has been such a huge help, not only with arranging everything involved with our safari, but she’s helped us change things last minute in order to handle our India visa issues.  

Seth and Elvis

There is no way I could give you a play by play of our entire safari.  There’s just too much to say.  We saw every animal you could imagine on a safari and experienced things that we could not have imagined beforehand.  We saw elephants up close, and were even charged once.  We watched giraffes get spooked by our slowing car, then stop to check us out.  The lions were majestic and even more impressive close up.  On our second day in the Serengetti we watched a collared lioness kill a thompson gazelle and then retrieve her two young cubs to treat them to a feast.  

Kitten Kill

The safari nights were just as eventful as the days.  Our chef, Good Luck, treated us to some lovely meals that we were able to share with the good company of Elvis.  We were so fortunate to be able to share our safari with these wonderful men.

Seth Berkley and Good Luck

We only left our tent in the middle of the night once, and seconds after we got back into our tent we heard close sounds of hyenas and lions.  And the noises only became more intense.  I woke up one evening to the sounds of a kill, lions grunting and hyenas cackling.  Those noises stopped any future nighttime bathroom runs

Safari Night

We were able to partake in a few days of cultural experiences as well.  We jumped and shrugged with the Masai, we spent time in the sitting room with Tatoga tribeswomen, and went on a hunt in the wee hours of the morning with the Hadzabe tribesmen.  We were able to catch a glimpse of life that hasn’t changed since the beginning of communities.  The experience has been life changing and I hope our pictures can give you a glimpse into our adventures.  

tanzaniaShillings

Obama Bus

zebras

Buffalo Skull

Safari Sunrise

Turkish Cooking and a Wild Goose hunt

We made our way to our meeting point to meet with Olga our cooking instructor for the day.  We headed out to the Asian side of Istanbul and wandered around the market. We stopped at various stalls to learn about local things and try foods native to the area.  I especially liked the Turkish Coffee.  We’ve tried some pretty good coffee here, but this one was the smoothest.

TurkishCoffee

We then went to Olga’s home to cook.  We whipped up an assortment of traditional Turkish food.  We started by preparing mezze (starters).  We made one with green beans and one with eggplant.  I absolutely loved the green bean mezze, which is not characteristic.  But, they were so good!

TurkishEggplant

We, then made the stuffed eggplant.  It was stuffed with garlic, onions, tomatoes, and a beef and lamb mixture.  That was also really tasty.  Even though I’m a big eggplant lover, I’m not usually a fan of stuffed eggplant.  But, I think this is because they are usually stuffed with rice, and I’m not a huge fan of rice.  So this was delicious.

TurkishStuffedEggplant

We made bourek in triangle form! Filled with a sliced cured meat, a feta like cheese and grilled onion mixture, wrapped in Turkish filo dough (which is a little bit thicker than other filo).  Those were amazing.

TurkishTriangles

For dessert we made what Olga called a sponge cake.  And spongy it was! It soaked up a ton of simple syrup.  It was served warm out of the oven with Turkish ice cream, which is made with a type of orchid root which has kind of a gummy consistency, much like the mastic we found in Greece.  Delish!

TurkishCakeIceCream

That night we did some laundry and ran into some ducklings waddling around outside our hotel.  They are adorable, but I’m not sure how much longer they’re going to last without a mommy.

Turkish Ducklings from Seth Cobb on Vimeo.

Today we went on a wild goose hunt.  Yesterday, we learned from Olga’s Turkish husband who used to work in tourism, that many people here would rather give you an inaccurate answer than tell you that they don’t know.  We definitely encountered this today.  We asked the tourist office If there was a UPS.  He told us yes then gave us directions.  But the directions did not lead us to a UPS.  We asked around and people kept pointing us in different directions, when finally one man in a hotel checked on the UPS website, and found it’s location, which was quite a walk away.  But, he told us there was a DHL down the street.  Then we had to walk in circles for quite a while asking people for directions and being sent in all sorts of directions.  Finally, after about an hour to an hour and a half we found the DHL, but they wouldn’t ship half of our things.  So we went for the regular post office, and had to wait a half an hour for the place to open.  Once it was open we were sent on another hunt to buy a box, because they only had one size, small.  My goodness.  I wish people would just tell you to ask someone else if they didn’t know.

We walked around for a bit and found a pide place that Olga recommended.  Pide is Turkey’s version of pizza.  It’s pizza, but the dough is shaped almost like a boat.  It was pretty good.